In the central heart of Umbria, approximately half-way between Rome and Florence, lies Deruta. At first glance from the approach, it appears like any other of the multitude of medieval towns dotting the countryside. Enter the gates, however, and you will quickly see that this hamlet is singular: its sole industry is ceramics. The nearly two hundred workshops and stores, along with a school for Ceramic Arts and a Ceramics Museum, all confirm Deruta’s thriving artistic tradition.
The first reliable documentation to bear witness to ceramic production in Deruta dates back to the Middle Ages. A document of 1290, one of the oldest to came to light, informs us that the church of San Nicolo in Deruta, subordinate to the chapter of the cathedral in Perugia and therefore obliged to pay an annual tribute, paid it with a load or vases. It is not possible to establish for how long this practice had existed, but it does suggest that ceramic activity in the Deruta area was widespread, established and well-known.
The particular form of ceramic-ware found throughout Italy and popularized in Deruta is called Majolica, or Maiolica in Italian, and is said to have originated from Majorca, brought to Italy by traveling merchants. The Moorish design influences are retained even today in many traditional patterns. Deruta’s rise as a center for ceramics is due in part to its location on the Tiber, a site of natural clay deposits. During the Renaissance, Deruta flourished and became Italy’s principle center for Majolica. Designs that were popularized during that period, such as Raffaelesco, Ricco Deruta and the perennially popular Rooster, or Gallo, are still being produced today, along with each workshop’s own contemporary signature designs. All of the patterns are brilliantly colored, highly decorative, hand-painted masterpieces.
Traditional methods are still employed to produce the beautiful pieces of artwork. A very fine-grained clay is hand thrown on a wheel or cast in molds, then fired for the first time. After cooling, the piece is dipped in a white glaze to create a blank canvas on which the artisan meticulously paints the classic designs. The piece is then fired again.
World renowned, historic pieces of Deruta pottery are placed in museums throughout the world and it is widely collected. Its durability and functionality make it highly practical and usable, though, as well. Prices can range from cheap to exorbitant depending upon the showroom or designer. Once you have found the perfect pattern, most workshops will gladly and carefully box and ship your purchases back home for you.
Our favorite: F. Lli Marcucci, Via Tiberuna, 204, 39.075.9711364
Three generations of artisans - Ernesto, proud craftsman, helped by the eldest of three brothers, Frank, is responsible for forming objects, the other sons Aldo and Augustine, true talent in the field of decoration, paint. Their signature pattern is the peacock and the best pieces are in the basement of the shop.